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[ SPECIFICATIONS ] Quantity: Two (2) Thickness: 1.0" (25mm) Bolt Pattern: 4x100 Centerbore: 54.1mm Stud/Nut Thread Pitch: 12x1.5 [ FITMENTS ] Compatible with Mazda: 2011-2014 2, 1989-1995 323 (4-Lug), 1992-1996 MX-3, 2016-2022 MX-5 Miata, 1990-2002 Protege (4-Lug) Compatible with Scion: 2004-2006 xA, 2004-2007 xB Compatible with Toyota: 1986-1993 Celica (Non GTS), 1993-2002 Corolla, 2000-2005 Echo, 1985-1989 MR2 Compatible with Toyota: 2000-2006 MR2 Spyder, 1992-1999 Paseo, 2001-2003 Prius, 1983-1999 Tercel, 2004-2020 Yaris Compatible with Hyundai: 2000-2022 Accent Compatible with Kia: 2001-2022 Rio WARNING: READ BEFORE PURCHASE/INSTALLATION - IMPROPER INSTALLATION, INCOMPATIBILITY, OR FAILURE TO RE-TORQUE HARDWARE CAN CAUSE LOSS OF WHEEL AND RESULT IN SERIOUS ACCIDENT, INJURY OR DEATH - Check and re-torque all nuts within 25-50 miles of installation - A torque wrench is required. Don't use air or impact wrenches - If your vehicle's wheel studs are longer than 1.0" (25mm), the back of your wheels need pockets to accommodate the stud/nuts - Measure wheel gap for clearance. You'll need at least 1.0" (25mm) of clearance to prevent wheel/tire from touching the fender
StanceMagic Hubcentric Wheel Spacers with Lip for vehicles with 4/100 Bolt Pattern and 54.1mm Centerbore. Compatible with Mazda 89-95 323 (4-Lug), 92-96 MX-3, 16-22 MX-5 Miata, 90-02 Protege (4-Lug). Compatible with Scion 04-07 xA, xB. Compatible with Toyota 86-93 Celica (Non GTS), 93-02 Corolla, 00-05 Echo, 85-89 MR2, 00-06 MR2 Spyder, 01-03 Prius, 83-99 Tercel, 04-20 Yaris. Check Year/Make/Model in Description. May fit others, verify using spacer specifications.
[VERIFY FITMENT] Even if a vehicle is listed as being compatible, buyers still need to check: 1) Wheel studs are M12x1.5 12x1.5mm threads; 2) You have 1.0" (25mm) of space between your fender and your wheel/tire; 3) Your factory wheel studs are shorter than 1.0" (25mm) (NOTE: If your wheel studs are too long, you may need to grind/trim the stud down to fit); 4) Wheel center bore needs to be no smaller than 54.1mm.
[SPECIFICATIONS] Two (2) Wheel Spacers | Thickness: 1.0" (25mm) Wide | Bolt Pattern: 4x100 | Hub Bore: 54.1mm | Lip Diameter: 54.1mm | Stud/Nut Thread Pitch: 12x1.5 | [MATERIAL & MANUFACTURING] Spacers are CNC Machined to exact specifications from high quality Aerospace Billet Aluminum. Undergoes anodizing process to prevent surface corrosion and rust. Includes heat treated 10.9 grade steel studs. Precised machined stud/nut threads prevents cross threading.
[PRODUCT BENEFITS] Hubcentric design ensures the spacer bore fits perfectly around 54.1mm vehicle hubs and the 54.1mm lip functions as an extension of the hub to prevent wobble or vibrations. Fixes clearance issues if your wheels are making contact with your shocks or brake calipers. Increases inner wheel well clearance to allow you to install wider rims/tires. Gives your vehicle a more aggressive stance. Improves handling characteristics and stability.
[INSTALLATION] Requires standard tire repair tools, a torque wrench, and lug socket. While installation is simple and most knowledgeable buyers can install themselves, we recommend professional installation especially if it's your first time installing auto parts. IMPORTANT SAFETY ADVISORY: Torque lug nuts to manufacturer specifications. Check and re-torque all hardware, including lug nuts securing adapter to wheel hub after 25-50 miles. See Description for additional install information.
These are indeed Computer Numeric Control (CNC) machined to very high accuracy. They go on easily, fit perfectly, centered perfectly. I put them on rear wheels and they've been perfect (but read my update below).Keep in mind, ANY SPACER - especially on front wheels - changes handling and may more or less degrade other aspects in the car's performance (more or less, depending on spacer size/thickness, depending on the overall weight of your wheels and tires, depending on your suspension geometry). Wheel spacers add weight to the wheel/hub, so on the margin they might slow your acceleration a little bit. They increase the weight of your unsprung mass, which will make your suspension a little bit less compliant - i.e. expect slightly less grip on uneven surfaces, in particular cornering. They change the geometry of your steering, but that will vary depending on your car. In my case: I added a 1" thick spacer to my Scion xB1, using +45 offset wheels (thus the wheel spacer reduced the resulting overall offset to +20mm). This made the steering feel a little less quick and responsive, and it made the steering take longer to return to center (i.e. when you "let go" coming out of a corner).For me, the spacer was necessary to fit larger tires. I would not have put them on for just cosmetic reasons, because I liked the steering response better without the spacers. But I'll probably get used to the new slightly "slower" steering response.UPDATE October 2021 (reduced from five to three stars):Prior to this update, I had not driven the front spacers at highway speeds. I put the spacers on to enable fitting larger tires, and first drove around town with them on my old tires, which seemed fine, even with the slight change in steering response. It did not occur to me at that time to try high speeds.After that, I had my shop install new tires and balance the wheels. Upon driving with new tires, I took to the highway, and immediately noticed bad vibration at high speed. I thought - the shop did a bad job of balancing the wheels! But then I thought, I need to make sure the fault is not in the wheel spacers, before I bring it back to the shop. To test for this, I removed the wheel spacers and drove up to highway speeds (and more!) and found no vibration. Then I thought, I'd like to keep the wheel spacers, so what if the fault was in the way the wheels were initially mounted by the shop (they do quick work, use power tools etc.). So to make sure that the fault was not with wheel mounting, I re-installed the wheel spacers and wheels, carefully centering the wheels on their studs and torquing wheel bolts by hand. The vibration returned, although it was reduced. Again I took the wheel spacers off: no vibration at any speed. Just to be certain, I did it all one more time with the same results: with spacers I got vibration, without spacers I had no vibration.I am surprised because the spacers seem very well made and do fit correctly/tight on my wheel spindle, centering perfectly. I've taken them off the front, returned to amazon. (I found another solution for my clearance problem) I've kept the spacers on the rear wheels, where they have worked fine.