Dynofit 3" Front Lift Kit for Ford F150 (2004-2023) & Expedition (2003-2018) - Aluminum Forged Leveling Strut Spacers for 2WD/4WD - Heavy Duty Suspension Upgrade for Off-Roading & Towing

Purchased the front strut spacers for 1.5" of lift and installed on my 2018 F150 3.5EB Crew Cab 5.5' Box Lariat FX4 ~40,000 miles. Had a bad IWE actuator, so it was somewhat convenient to tackle both the spacer install and hub replacement at the same time, nearly all of the same suspension components need to come apart to do these jobs.The spacer kit is very nice. The spacers themselves are nicely machined aluminum and anodized black. They seem like they should hold up well. I discarded some of the hardware that came in the kit, sometimes the hardware that comes from overseas is poor quality. Did this just to be safe. I used the socket head screws but sourced my own stainless flat washers for them. Then for the 3 nuts that go back on the top of the strut tower on the frame of the truck, I re-used the factory nuts, they are nice large flange locknuts. I used my stainless washers and locally sourced nylock nuts to fasten the spacers to the strut assemblies.Tip #1 - due to the 3 bolt pattern on the spacer and strut plate, you need to rotate the strut plate 180 degrees on the strut assembly. I put the lower part of the strut in a vice and used a pry bar spanning 2 of the 3 studs on the strut plate to apply torque to the strut plate to spin it. I spun in the wrong direction and the spring started to climb out of its ramp pocket. Give a little WD40 spray around the lower spring retainer, and spin in the direction that it does not try to climb the ramp on the retainer.Tip #2 - on my install (1.5" of finished lift), the thickness of the spacer is a bit less than the length of the studs on the factory strut plate. If left untouched, the spacer may not properly sit in the strut tower in the frame. The strut plate studs protrude slightly above the top surface of the spacer. I ground down the strut plate studs and filed the edges of the threads, to avoid any issues.Tip #3 - my factory struts have pressed in lower bolts where the bottom of the shock mounts to the lower control arm. That makes the overall strut assembly "longer", meaning the lower control arm needs to be pried down further to fit the longer strut assembly back into the chassis. Since I was also doing the IWE hub replacement, 2 things made it a lot easier to pivot the control arm down lower. First, having the CV axle removed from the front hub, so you aren't fighting trying to "stretch" the CV axle as you pry down the lower control arm. Second, I removed 1 nut (on each side of the truck) from the stabilizer bar link, to disconnect the stabilizer bar from the lower control arm. This then allowed the lower control arm to be easily pried low enough to install the strut assembly.Overall very nice product, good install. On the 1.5" lift version, at full suspension droop, there is very little clearance, maybe even just a bit of light contact between the coil spring and the inside of the upper control arm. I do not off-road so it is very unlikely that my suspension goes to full droop. The truck needed a minor alignment after the install. No noticeable change in ride, after all, the same shocks and springs are carrying the same load. Headlights needed roughly 2 clicks of adjustment down to shine in the same spot on my garage door at 25 feet away. Most of the rake is now removed from my truck, instead of the front being ~2" lower, it is roughly 1/2" lower. No noticeable change in highway fuel economy (air flow over and under truck might have been altered and could potentially affect mileage).